Do your guns look decidedly unloved? Have they sat lonely and forgotten for years, their only companions Mr Rust and Mr Mildew? Are you ashamed to be seen on the range in their company? Do I sound like a second-rate advertisement for U-Bodgit Gun Repairs? You betcha!
Your chances of repairing your firearm to near new condition depend on exactly how far its condition has deteriorated. Over many years of fooling around with guns, some of them professionally, I have found the best way to refurbish neglected bangsticks is not always the expensive way. While I would not recommend these methods for that high grade Purdy or Weatherby, the majority of firearms out there are low- to mid-priced models that will not be the worse for any of these measures.
Many people assume by the appearance of rust on the barrel or receiver that it is in need of a reblue. This is often not the case at all. You may be surprised to learn that the dark finish found on most firearms is not really a protective coating as such, it is a chemically induced controlled corrosion that stabilises the surface of the metal while turning it a deep blue or black colour. It prevents minor blemishes but needs a light coating of oil to prevent rust.
The first step in attacking a rusty area is to rub it lightly with a very fine grade of steel wool wet with gun oil. Light machine oil, 3-in-1 or sewing machine oil is also okay. In most cases this will remove surface rust without damaging the blueing, as long as you approach it with patience and care. If the blue rubs off or has already worn away there are a number of cold blue touch up solutions available from a gun shop. More serious rust pitting requires buffing on a wire wheel and giving consideration to a professional reblue. Since this would probably cost in excess of $100 you must decide whether the value of your gun warrants it.
How well your gun will respond to touch up blue depends a lot on the type of steel used by the manufacturer. A general rule is that older firearms have fewer additives in the steel. Modern industrial methods may have made it possible to make actions lighter and cut costs for the manufacturer, but this is of little comfort when you try to refinish a receiver of high alloy composition like a late model Winchester 94 lever action. Mostly they look better rusty than the sad mottled light grey that comes out of a bottle.
Should you decide to attempt a partial or full reblue with touch up blue there are several key points that are critical. Preparation is very important. Never resort to taking the old finish off with abrasives like sandpaper. Even the finest wet and dry grades will leave scratch marks that will be as obvious as carving "rough as guts" in the butt. If fine steel wool will not remove the finish, use a buffing wheel.
In order to remove all foreign substances from the surface it is necessary to use a good degreaser. Shellite, acetone or white spirits are fine; in fact, any solvent used as preparation for painting metal surfaces would probably work. Be careful not to leave fingerprints as these will in turn leave traces of oil and other impurities.
There are several brands of blue available; G96 make liquid, creme or paste, while Birchwood Casey and Outers have only liquid. My own preference is G96 creme, but I believe that any of the above will work well as long as you do not follow the instructions on the labels. This may well sound like heresy, but if you do as the makers suggest your gun will look as pallidly attractive as Michael Jackson caught in the rain (complete with running mascara).
Now that you have completely degreased the parts of your firearm to be blued, apply the blueing solution with some lint-free cloth. Keep rubbing in until the colour changes to a deep blue or black. Should this not work well try applying with a clean piece of fine steel wool. Try not to cover too great an area at once.
At this point you must disregard standard instructions. All brands recommend washing the parts in water to neutralise the chemical reaction. This will result in a streaky finish that will never look quite right no matter how many times you go over it. Once all parts have been blued, and there is a milky white residue all over, take a very oily rag and saturate all parts. Make sure the entire surface gets soaked in gun oil and then leave it until the next day.
This is the most important part. After approximately 24 hours you must go over all the parts with your oily rag again. The first coat of oil only 90% neutralised the chemical action of the blueing formula. This allowed the blue to continue working overnight. The second saturation halts it completely. Should you forget to do this your gun will be a rust bucket within days.
My best results have occurred when there has been a light brown powder forming on the surface of the metal the next day. The previous oil had soaked into the pores of the metal or evaporated, I am never sure which. But under that fine pre-rust dust is a far deeper and more durable blue than can be achieved from following the maker's instructions.